Wave Formation and Coastal Processes
Wave strength depends on three main factors that work together like a recipe. The strength of the wind is your main ingredient, but it's how long that wind has been blowing and the fetch (the distance it travels over water) that really determines whether you get gentle ripples or monster waves.
Coastlines face constant attack through weathering and mass movement. Physical weathering happens when freeze-thaw cycles split rocks apart, whilst salt crystallisation acts like tiny explosives in rock cracks. Chemical weathering, especially carbonation, is limestone's worst enemy - it literally dissolves the rock away.
Mass movement is gravity doing its thing. Rockfalls happen when chunks break off and tumble down cliffs, whilst slumps occur after heavy rainfall when the ground becomes waterlogged and entire sections slide downwards. Think of it as the cliff losing its grip and letting go.
Remember: The combination of wind strength, duration, and fetch determines wave power - that's why Atlantic coastlines get hammered more than sheltered bays!





