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Wave Formation and Coastal Processes
Wave strength depends on three main factors that work together like a recipe. The strength of the wind is your main ingredient, but it's how long that wind has been blowing and the fetch (the distance it travels over water) that really determines whether you get gentle ripples or monster waves.
Coastlines face constant attack through weathering and mass movement. Physical weathering happens when freeze-thaw cycles split rocks apart, whilst salt crystallisation acts like tiny explosives in rock cracks. Chemical weathering, especially carbonation, is limestone's worst enemy - it literally dissolves the rock away.
Mass movement is gravity doing its thing. Rockfalls happen when chunks break off and tumble down cliffs, whilst slumps occur after heavy rainfall when the ground becomes waterlogged and entire sections slide downwards. Think of it as the cliff losing its grip and letting go.
Remember: The combination of wind strength, duration, and fetch determines wave power - that's why Atlantic coastlines get hammered more than sheltered bays!
Coastal Erosion and Management
Rock structure matters massively for erosion rates. Horizontal strata (rock layers) are much stronger than vertical ones - imagine trying to snap a stack of books versus pulling pages apart sideways.
Waves attack coastlines through four main processes. Hydraulic action uses compressed air like a pneumatic drill, forcing water into cracks until rocks explode outwards. Abrasion is nature's sandblasting - waves hurl rocks and sand at cliff faces. Attrition rounds off sharp edges as rocks crash together in the surf.
Beach reprofiling involves bulldozers redistributing sand to create gentler slopes, but this fights against destructive waves that constantly pull material seaward. Managed retreat sounds like giving up, but it's actually clever - letting the sea flood low-value land creates natural salt marshes and mudflats that absorb wave energy.
Key Point: Sometimes working with nature (managed retreat) is more effective and cheaper than fighting against it with expensive sea walls!
Flooding Causes and River Management
Flooding happens when rivers can't cope with the water volume. Physical causes include impermeable rocks that force water to flow over the surface rather than soaking in, and steep slopes that create rapid runoff. Hot weather bakes soil hard, whilst prolonged rain waterloggs everything.
Human activities make flooding worse. Deforestation removes nature's umbrellas - trees that intercept rainfall and slow water flow. Urban areas create storm drains that rush water straight to rivers, whilst arable farming creates furrows that channel water like motorways.
Dams offer flood control and generate hydroelectric power, but they're expensive and submerge valuable land. They also trap sediment that would naturally fertilise downstream areas. River straightening with concrete channels moves water faster, but this just pushes flood problems downstream with more energy.
Embankments raise river banks to contain flood water and provide walkways, though they look artificial. Flood relief channels divert excess water around urban areas - expensive but essential for protecting property.
Think About It: Urban development often creates the flooding problems it then needs expensive engineering to solve!
Sustainable Flood Management
Flood warnings and preparation plans give communities time to respond, whilst flood plain zoning keeps high-value developments away from risky areas. Smart planning restricts impermeable surfaces near rivers and reserves flood-prone land for pasture rather than housing.
Afforestation tackles flooding at source. Trees intercept rainfall like giant umbrellas, increase evaporation, and bind soil together to prevent rivers silting up. It's slower than concrete solutions but provides wildlife habitats as natural bonus features.
River restoration brings rivers back to their natural meandering state. These wiggly channels hold more water than straight ones and slow flow rates, giving more time for evaporation. Restored wetlands act like giant sponges, soaking up excess water during floods.
The trade-off? Restoration projects are lengthy, expensive, and need ongoing maintenance. They also require loads of space either side of rivers. However, they work with natural processes rather than fighting them, making them more sustainable long-term.
Bottom Line: Natural flood management takes longer to establish but often provides better long-term protection than concrete and steel solutions!
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Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.
Anna
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Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.
Basil
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This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.
David K
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The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!
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In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.
Greenlight Bonnie
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very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.
Rohan U
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I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.
Xander S
iOS user
THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮
Elisha
iOS user
This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now
Paul T
iOS user
The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.
Stefan S
iOS user
This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.
Samantha Klich
Android user
Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.
Anna
iOS user
Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good
Thomas R
iOS user
Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.
Basil
Android user
This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.
David K
iOS user
The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!
Sudenaz Ocak
Android user
In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.
Greenlight Bonnie
Android user
very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.
Rohan U
Android user
I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.
Xander S
iOS user
THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮
Elisha
iOS user
This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now
Paul T
iOS user
AQA GCSE Geography Guide: Coasts and Rivers Explained
Ever wondered why some coastlines get battered by massive waves whilst others stay relatively calm? Or why certain areas flood every winter whilst neighbouring regions stay bone dry? Understanding wave formation, coastal processes, and flooding isn't just academic stuff -... Show more
Wave Formation and Coastal Processes
Wave strength depends on three main factors that work together like a recipe. The strength of the wind is your main ingredient, but it's how long that wind has been blowing and the fetch (the distance it travels over water) that really determines whether you get gentle ripples or monster waves.
Coastlines face constant attack through weathering and mass movement. Physical weathering happens when freeze-thaw cycles split rocks apart, whilst salt crystallisation acts like tiny explosives in rock cracks. Chemical weathering, especially carbonation, is limestone's worst enemy - it literally dissolves the rock away.
Mass movement is gravity doing its thing. Rockfalls happen when chunks break off and tumble down cliffs, whilst slumps occur after heavy rainfall when the ground becomes waterlogged and entire sections slide downwards. Think of it as the cliff losing its grip and letting go.
Remember: The combination of wind strength, duration, and fetch determines wave power - that's why Atlantic coastlines get hammered more than sheltered bays!
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Coastal Erosion and Management
Rock structure matters massively for erosion rates. Horizontal strata (rock layers) are much stronger than vertical ones - imagine trying to snap a stack of books versus pulling pages apart sideways.
Waves attack coastlines through four main processes. Hydraulic action uses compressed air like a pneumatic drill, forcing water into cracks until rocks explode outwards. Abrasion is nature's sandblasting - waves hurl rocks and sand at cliff faces. Attrition rounds off sharp edges as rocks crash together in the surf.
Beach reprofiling involves bulldozers redistributing sand to create gentler slopes, but this fights against destructive waves that constantly pull material seaward. Managed retreat sounds like giving up, but it's actually clever - letting the sea flood low-value land creates natural salt marshes and mudflats that absorb wave energy.
Key Point: Sometimes working with nature (managed retreat) is more effective and cheaper than fighting against it with expensive sea walls!
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Flooding Causes and River Management
Flooding happens when rivers can't cope with the water volume. Physical causes include impermeable rocks that force water to flow over the surface rather than soaking in, and steep slopes that create rapid runoff. Hot weather bakes soil hard, whilst prolonged rain waterloggs everything.
Human activities make flooding worse. Deforestation removes nature's umbrellas - trees that intercept rainfall and slow water flow. Urban areas create storm drains that rush water straight to rivers, whilst arable farming creates furrows that channel water like motorways.
Dams offer flood control and generate hydroelectric power, but they're expensive and submerge valuable land. They also trap sediment that would naturally fertilise downstream areas. River straightening with concrete channels moves water faster, but this just pushes flood problems downstream with more energy.
Embankments raise river banks to contain flood water and provide walkways, though they look artificial. Flood relief channels divert excess water around urban areas - expensive but essential for protecting property.
Think About It: Urban development often creates the flooding problems it then needs expensive engineering to solve!
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Sustainable Flood Management
Flood warnings and preparation plans give communities time to respond, whilst flood plain zoning keeps high-value developments away from risky areas. Smart planning restricts impermeable surfaces near rivers and reserves flood-prone land for pasture rather than housing.
Afforestation tackles flooding at source. Trees intercept rainfall like giant umbrellas, increase evaporation, and bind soil together to prevent rivers silting up. It's slower than concrete solutions but provides wildlife habitats as natural bonus features.
River restoration brings rivers back to their natural meandering state. These wiggly channels hold more water than straight ones and slow flow rates, giving more time for evaporation. Restored wetlands act like giant sponges, soaking up excess water during floods.
The trade-off? Restoration projects are lengthy, expensive, and need ongoing maintenance. They also require loads of space either side of rivers. However, they work with natural processes rather than fighting them, making them more sustainable long-term.
Bottom Line: Natural flood management takes longer to establish but often provides better long-term protection than concrete and steel solutions!
We thought you’d never ask...
What is the Knowunity AI companion?
Our AI Companion is a student-focused AI tool that offers more than just answers. Built on millions of Knowunity resources, it provides relevant information, personalised study plans, quizzes, and content directly in the chat, adapting to your individual learning journey.
Where can I download the Knowunity app?
You can download the app from Google Play Store and Apple App Store.
Is Knowunity really free of charge?
That's right! Enjoy free access to study content, connect with fellow students, and get instant help – all at your fingertips.
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Most popular content: Erosion
Most popular content in Geography
Most popular content
English - inspector calls quotes and analysis
Quotes from every main character
English Literature10
Can't find what you're looking for? Explore other subjects.
Students love us — and so will you.
4.9/5
App Store
4.8/5
Google Play
The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.
Stefan S
iOS user
This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.
Samantha Klich
Android user
Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.
Anna
iOS user
Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good
Thomas R
iOS user
Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.
Basil
Android user
This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.
David K
iOS user
The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!
Sudenaz Ocak
Android user
In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.
Greenlight Bonnie
Android user
very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.
Rohan U
Android user
I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.
Xander S
iOS user
THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮
Elisha
iOS user
This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now
Paul T
iOS user
The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.
Stefan S
iOS user
This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.
Samantha Klich
Android user
Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.
Anna
iOS user
Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good
Thomas R
iOS user
Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.
Basil
Android user
This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.
David K
iOS user
The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!
Sudenaz Ocak
Android user
In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.
Greenlight Bonnie
Android user
very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.
Rohan U
Android user
I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.
Xander S
iOS user
THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮
Elisha
iOS user
This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now
Paul T
iOS user