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How Waves and Weather Change the Coastline

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rowan

10/04/2023

Geography

gcse geography coastal processes

318

10 Apr 2023

2 pages

How Waves and Weather Change the Coastline

Coastal landscapes are shaped by various processes including mechanical weathering... Show more

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TOPIC 9 COASTAL LANDSCAPES
wastal processes
WEATHERING:
mechanical = doesn't change a rock's chemical composition whilst breaking
- temperat

Longshore Drift

Longshore drift is a significant process that contributes to the movement of sediment along coastlines. This process is driven by the interaction between waves and the beach, following the direction of prevailing winds.

The process of longshore drift begins when waves approach the coast at an oblique angle. As these waves break on the shore, they create a swash that carries material up the beach in the direction of the wave. When the water retreats as backwash, it moves straight down the beach due to gravity, rather than following the path of the incoming wave.

Definition: Swash - The rush of water up the beach face after a wave breaks.

Definition: Backwash - The return flow of water down the beach face after the swash.

This repeated action of swash and backwash results in a zigzag movement of material along the coast. Over time, this process can transport significant amounts of sediment, reshaping coastal features and contributing to the formation of landforms such as spits and bars.

Highlight: The direction of longshore drift is determined by the prevailing wind direction, which influences the angle at which waves approach the shore.

Understanding longshore drift is crucial for coastal management strategies, as it affects erosion and deposition patterns along the coastline. It can lead to the accumulation of sediment in some areas while causing erosion in others, potentially impacting coastal communities and infrastructure.

Example: A beach that experiences consistent longshore drift may see erosion at one end and accretion buildupofsedimentbuild-up of sediment at the other, potentially affecting beachfront properties and coastal defenses.

The process of longshore drift demonstrates the dynamic nature of coastal landscapes and the continuous movement of materials within these environments. It highlights the interconnectedness of various coastal processes and their cumulative effects on shaping the coastline over time.

TOPIC 9 COASTAL LANDSCAPES
wastal processes
WEATHERING:
mechanical = doesn't change a rock's chemical composition whilst breaking
- temperat

Coastal Processes

Coastal landscapes are shaped by a variety of processes, including weathering, mass movement, and wave action. These processes work together to create and modify coastal features over time.

Weathering is a crucial process in coastal landscapes, with two main types: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical weathering breaks down rocks without changing their chemical composition. This process is particularly effective in coastal areas where temperature fluctuations are common.

Example: In coastal regions where temperatures alternate around freezing, water enters cracks in rocks. As the water freezes, it expands, creating pressure that widens and eventually breaks these cracks.

Chemical weathering, on the other hand, breaks down rocks while altering their chemical composition. This process is facilitated by rainwater, which contains carbon dioxide, forming a weak carbonic acid.

Vocabulary: Carbonic acid - A weak acid formed when carbon dioxide dissolves in water.

The carbonic acid reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks, dissolving them over time. This process is particularly significant in areas with limestone cliffs.

Mass movement is another critical process affecting coastal landscapes. It involves the shifting of rocks and material down a slope due to gravity.

Definition: Mass movement - The downslope movement of rock and soil under the influence of gravity.

Mass movement occurs when the force of gravity acting on a slope becomes greater than the forces supporting it. This process can lead to rapid coastal retreat and creates distinctive features in the landscape.

Highlight: Mass movement is more likely to occur when the material holds water, as water acts as a lubricant and increases the weight of the material.

One of the results of mass movement is the creation of a scarp, which is a steep cut in the side of a slope.

The influence of wave types on coastal erosion and deposition is a key factor in shaping coastal landscapes. The type of wave that reaches the coast is determined by the fetch, which is the distance the wind blows over the sea.

Vocabulary: Fetch - The distance over which wind blows across open water, affecting wave formation.

There are two main types of waves: destructive and constructive. Destructive waves are characterized by high frequency and steep profiles. They have a powerful backwash and a weak swash, making them effective at eroding the coast.

Constructive waves, in contrast, have a low frequency and are low and long. They have a powerful swash and a weak backwash, making them more likely to deposit material on the coast.



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THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮

Elisha

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This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now

Paul T

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The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.

Stefan S

iOS user

This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.

Samantha Klich

Android user

Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.

Anna

iOS user

Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good

Thomas R

iOS user

Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.

Basil

Android user

This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.

David K

iOS user

The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!

Sudenaz Ocak

Android user

In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.

Greenlight Bonnie

Android user

very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.

Rohan U

Android user

I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.

Xander S

iOS user

THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮

Elisha

iOS user

This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now

Paul T

iOS user

 

Geography

318

10 Apr 2023

2 pages

How Waves and Weather Change the Coastline

Coastal landscapes are shaped by various processes including mechanical weathering in coastal landscapes, mass movement effects on coastal retreat, and the influence of wave types on coastal erosion and deposition. These processes work together to create and... Show more

TOPIC 9 COASTAL LANDSCAPES
wastal processes
WEATHERING:
mechanical = doesn't change a rock's chemical composition whilst breaking
- temperat

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Longshore Drift

Longshore drift is a significant process that contributes to the movement of sediment along coastlines. This process is driven by the interaction between waves and the beach, following the direction of prevailing winds.

The process of longshore drift begins when waves approach the coast at an oblique angle. As these waves break on the shore, they create a swash that carries material up the beach in the direction of the wave. When the water retreats as backwash, it moves straight down the beach due to gravity, rather than following the path of the incoming wave.

Definition: Swash - The rush of water up the beach face after a wave breaks.

Definition: Backwash - The return flow of water down the beach face after the swash.

This repeated action of swash and backwash results in a zigzag movement of material along the coast. Over time, this process can transport significant amounts of sediment, reshaping coastal features and contributing to the formation of landforms such as spits and bars.

Highlight: The direction of longshore drift is determined by the prevailing wind direction, which influences the angle at which waves approach the shore.

Understanding longshore drift is crucial for coastal management strategies, as it affects erosion and deposition patterns along the coastline. It can lead to the accumulation of sediment in some areas while causing erosion in others, potentially impacting coastal communities and infrastructure.

Example: A beach that experiences consistent longshore drift may see erosion at one end and accretion buildupofsedimentbuild-up of sediment at the other, potentially affecting beachfront properties and coastal defenses.

The process of longshore drift demonstrates the dynamic nature of coastal landscapes and the continuous movement of materials within these environments. It highlights the interconnectedness of various coastal processes and their cumulative effects on shaping the coastline over time.

TOPIC 9 COASTAL LANDSCAPES
wastal processes
WEATHERING:
mechanical = doesn't change a rock's chemical composition whilst breaking
- temperat

Sign up to see the contentIt's free!

Access to all documents

Improve your grades

Join milions of students

By signing up you accept Terms of Service and Privacy Policy

Coastal Processes

Coastal landscapes are shaped by a variety of processes, including weathering, mass movement, and wave action. These processes work together to create and modify coastal features over time.

Weathering is a crucial process in coastal landscapes, with two main types: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical weathering breaks down rocks without changing their chemical composition. This process is particularly effective in coastal areas where temperature fluctuations are common.

Example: In coastal regions where temperatures alternate around freezing, water enters cracks in rocks. As the water freezes, it expands, creating pressure that widens and eventually breaks these cracks.

Chemical weathering, on the other hand, breaks down rocks while altering their chemical composition. This process is facilitated by rainwater, which contains carbon dioxide, forming a weak carbonic acid.

Vocabulary: Carbonic acid - A weak acid formed when carbon dioxide dissolves in water.

The carbonic acid reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks, dissolving them over time. This process is particularly significant in areas with limestone cliffs.

Mass movement is another critical process affecting coastal landscapes. It involves the shifting of rocks and material down a slope due to gravity.

Definition: Mass movement - The downslope movement of rock and soil under the influence of gravity.

Mass movement occurs when the force of gravity acting on a slope becomes greater than the forces supporting it. This process can lead to rapid coastal retreat and creates distinctive features in the landscape.

Highlight: Mass movement is more likely to occur when the material holds water, as water acts as a lubricant and increases the weight of the material.

One of the results of mass movement is the creation of a scarp, which is a steep cut in the side of a slope.

The influence of wave types on coastal erosion and deposition is a key factor in shaping coastal landscapes. The type of wave that reaches the coast is determined by the fetch, which is the distance the wind blows over the sea.

Vocabulary: Fetch - The distance over which wind blows across open water, affecting wave formation.

There are two main types of waves: destructive and constructive. Destructive waves are characterized by high frequency and steep profiles. They have a powerful backwash and a weak swash, making them effective at eroding the coast.

Constructive waves, in contrast, have a low frequency and are low and long. They have a powerful swash and a weak backwash, making them more likely to deposit material on the coast.

We thought you’d never ask...

What is the Knowunity AI companion?

Our AI Companion is a student-focused AI tool that offers more than just answers. Built on millions of Knowunity resources, it provides relevant information, personalised study plans, quizzes, and content directly in the chat, adapting to your individual learning journey.

Where can I download the Knowunity app?

You can download the app from Google Play Store and Apple App Store.

Is Knowunity really free of charge?

That's right! Enjoy free access to study content, connect with fellow students, and get instant help – all at your fingertips.

Can't find what you're looking for? Explore other subjects.

Students love us — and so will you.

4.9/5

App Store

4.8/5

Google Play

The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.

Stefan S

iOS user

This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.

Samantha Klich

Android user

Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.

Anna

iOS user

Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good

Thomas R

iOS user

Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.

Basil

Android user

This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.

David K

iOS user

The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!

Sudenaz Ocak

Android user

In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.

Greenlight Bonnie

Android user

very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.

Rohan U

Android user

I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.

Xander S

iOS user

THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮

Elisha

iOS user

This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now

Paul T

iOS user

The app is very easy to use and well designed. I have found everything I was looking for so far and have been able to learn a lot from the presentations! I will definitely use the app for a class assignment! And of course it also helps a lot as an inspiration.

Stefan S

iOS user

This app is really great. There are so many study notes and help [...]. My problem subject is French, for example, and the app has so many options for help. Thanks to this app, I have improved my French. I would recommend it to anyone.

Samantha Klich

Android user

Wow, I am really amazed. I just tried the app because I've seen it advertised many times and was absolutely stunned. This app is THE HELP you want for school and above all, it offers so many things, such as workouts and fact sheets, which have been VERY helpful to me personally.

Anna

iOS user

Best app on earth! no words because it’s too good

Thomas R

iOS user

Just amazing. Let's me revise 10x better, this app is a quick 10/10. I highly recommend it to anyone. I can watch and search for notes. I can save them in the subject folder. I can revise it any time when I come back. If you haven't tried this app, you're really missing out.

Basil

Android user

This app has made me feel so much more confident in my exam prep, not only through boosting my own self confidence through the features that allow you to connect with others and feel less alone, but also through the way the app itself is centred around making you feel better. It is easy to navigate, fun to use, and helpful to anyone struggling in absolutely any way.

David K

iOS user

The app's just great! All I have to do is enter the topic in the search bar and I get the response real fast. I don't have to watch 10 YouTube videos to understand something, so I'm saving my time. Highly recommended!

Sudenaz Ocak

Android user

In school I was really bad at maths but thanks to the app, I am doing better now. I am so grateful that you made the app.

Greenlight Bonnie

Android user

very reliable app to help and grow your ideas of Maths, English and other related topics in your works. please use this app if your struggling in areas, this app is key for that. wish I'd of done a review before. and it's also free so don't worry about that.

Rohan U

Android user

I know a lot of apps use fake accounts to boost their reviews but this app deserves it all. Originally I was getting 4 in my English exams and this time I got a grade 7. I didn’t even know about this app three days until the exam and it has helped A LOT. Please actually trust me and use it as I’m sure you too will see developments.

Xander S

iOS user

THE QUIZES AND FLASHCARDS ARE SO USEFUL AND I LOVE THE SCHOOLGPT. IT ALSO IS LITREALLY LIKE CHATGPT BUT SMARTER!! HELPED ME WITH MY MASCARA PROBLEMS TOO!! AS WELL AS MY REAL SUBJECTS ! DUHHH 😍😁😲🤑💗✨🎀😮

Elisha

iOS user

This apps acc the goat. I find revision so boring but this app makes it so easy to organize it all and then you can ask the freeeee ai to test yourself so good and you can easily upload your own stuff. highly recommend as someone taking mocks now

Paul T

iOS user