Wave Formation and Coastal Erosion
Wave size depends on three key factors: wind speed, how long the wind has blown, and fetch length (the distance wind travels over water). It's like building momentum - longer fetch and stronger winds create more powerful waves.
Constructive waves form in calm conditions with light winds and short fetches. Their stronger swash encourages deposition, creating wide, shallow beaches. Destructive waves result from strong winds and long fetches, with powerful backwash that erodes coastlines into narrow, steep beaches.
Wave formation starts when wind creates friction over the sea surface, producing swells. Energy causes water particles to rotate inside these swells, moving waves forward.
Coastal erosion happens through five main processes: wave pounding (sheer water force), hydraulic action (compressed air in cracks), abrasion (beach material acting like sandpaper), corrosion (chemical dissolving), and attrition (rocks hitting each other until they become sand).
Discordant coasts have different rock types, whilst concordant coasts have uniform geology.
Quick Tip: Think of destructive vs constructive waves like their names suggest - one destroys (erodes), one constructs (deposits)!